

’nuff said.
There’s been some confusion about the meaning of the timestamp in the upper right corner of the Seestar app’s live-stacking screen.
For this discussion let’s assume you’re capturing 10-second exposures.
The Seestar evaluates each exposure, looking for stars it recognizes and making sure there are no star trails, airplanes, satellites, or other abnormalities. If it likes what it sees, it adds that exposure to the finished image. Technically, this is called “live stacking”. Seestar calls it “enhancing”. As each exposure is added to the finished image, 10 seconds are added to the time in the upper right. This is called “integration time” — it’s exposure time multiplied by the number of exposures.
There is a pause of about 1.5 seconds between exposures, so you won’t get 6 10-second exposures per minute of clock time. It’s also the case that the Seestar seems to not even try to accept every image it shoots — more like 1 every 3 at times. I haven’t figured out the pattern for this.
I’ve found if I have ideal conditions (including targeting an object whose path across the sky gives me minimal field rotation in 10 seconds), I get around 4 minutes of images for 5 minutes of clock time. But that’s ideal. Normal for me under Bortle 1 sky (very dark, high-quality seeing) is about 1.5-2 minutes of integration time per 5 minutes of clock time. So in an hour I might get 25 minutes of integration time. Over the course of 6-8 hours, as an object traverses the entire sky — including crossing the meridian at high altitude where there is a lot of field rotation — I’ll get anywhere from 1-2 hours of integration time.
I just processed 2 projects that each had 11 nights of data. The first had about 72 hours of total clock time and about 7 hours and 40 minutes of integration time. The other was the same 11 nights but only about 24 hours of total clock time. It’s path was “flatter” across the sky during those hours. In that case I got over 11 hours of integration time.
These are my experiences and might be dependent on conditions where I am and on my particular Seestar. It might also depend on whether I’m doing a mosaic or not (that is, framing is set to something other than 1.0).
I get asked about this a lot. This is my current workflow. I’ll try to keep it up-to-date but this should at least be close.
Disclaimer: I’m not an expert at this. I’ve just spent a few more hours watching YouTube videos and experimenting than you have.
Here’s an example of why you should learn to process your Seestar images in something more than a photo editor (Lightroom, Photoshop, GIMP, Acorn, etc.). The first image is right off the Seestar. A lot of people would bring this into an image editor and crank up saturation, brightness, and contrast. That’s what you see in the second image.
The third image is processed using the workflow described below. I just took the stacked .fit file from the Seestar and ran it through GraXpert, Siril, and Topaz. This allowed me to eliminate the noise, remove the stars and process them separately, and bring out details that are present in the original.
Click on an image to see it at full resolution.
This is just a quick example. Processing took about 20 minutes. The point is to show the relative difference between what you get out of the Seestar, what you get from a photo editor, and what you can get with a few minutes of work.
For single sessions, the Seestar automatically creates a stacked .fit file. Just use that.
For multiple sessions over several nights, the cheapest and easiest stacking solution is to stack on the Seestar. This works with up to about 2000 frames for sure, but after that it can get iffy. It may do 6 hours of work then crash at the end. But if it works for you, it’s great.
To stack on the Seestar, connect to the device with your PC or Mac and delete (after making a backup copy, of course) everything except the object-name_sub folder containing your subframes. Within that folder, sort by file type/kind and delete all the .jpg files. Just keep the .fit files.
Now use Deep Sky Stacking on the home page of the Seestar to stack your subframes. When done, if your subframes were in object-name_sub, then the result will be in the object-name folder.
APP is a paid program (about $60/year or $230 for full license) but does a great job of stacking Seestar mosaics.
If you are not going on to Siril:
If you are going to bring the image into Siril:
Siril has more options than you can learn in one YouTube video or by reading these steps. Here’s my general workflow as of today.
If you have a tool to do noise removal or further editing, like Topaz Labs’ Photo AI:
Continue in Siril: